ResearchTeam
25-06-2006, 10:28 AM
http://photo.hondatech.com.au/DragCarAllMotor4/0407ht_civic01_z.jpg
Erick Aguilar gets things rolling by referencing the main bearing clearance numbers recorded during the last installment and looking up which factory bearings Honda recommends would work best with the main journals on the Eagle crank. Honda makes multiple types of main and rod bearings for various platforms and each is given a color designation that corresponds to a different thickness. Pink is the thinnest, black the thickest.
http://photo.hondatech.com.au/DragCarAllMotor4/0311ht_projectcrx03_z.jpgAs this is a low-mileage race motor and we need the ability to load the crank right away without spinning a bearing (which can happen if there's not enough clearance), Aguilar leaves tolerances a little looser than spec. The crank gets brown main bearings, with a single black bearing on the journal closest to the timing belt end of the motor (Aguilar guesses this particular journal got a hair more micropolish than the others).
http://photo.hondatech.com.au/DragCarAllMotor4/0311ht_projectcrx04_z.jpg
Then he douses each bearing with copious amounts of motor oil.
http://photo.hondatech.com.au/DragCarAllMotor4/0311ht_projectcrx05_z.jpg
http://photo.hondatech.com.au/DragCarAllMotor4/0311ht_projectcrx06_z.jpg
Before dropping in the crank, Aguilar preps the threads of the main cap bolts with assembly lube because it gives him a truer reading from the torque wrench. Threads treated with just oil can still sometimes bind and give a false reading, he adds.
http://photo.hondatech.com.au/DragCarAllMotor4/0311ht_projectcrx07_z.jpg
The crankshaft is introduced to the crankcase.
http://photo.hondatech.com.au/DragCarAllMotor4/0311ht_projectcrx08_z.jpg
Before the caps are installed, more oil is applied to the main journals and oil galleries of the crank. Aguilar uses a custom billet crank in his own car because he contends factory cranks - and aftermarket cranks based on factory cranks - tend to flex under high-rpm conditions.
http://photo.hondatech.com.au/DragCarAllMotor4/0311ht_projectcrx09_z.jpg
Thrust washers that prevent the crank from moving laterally go in on either side of the number four main journal. Then Aguilar positions the main bearing caps and temporarily tightens the cap bolts with a socket wrench.
http://photo.hondatech.com.au/DragCarAllMotor4/0311ht_projectcrx10_z.jpg
A torque wrench is used to finish tightening the main cap bolts. The end bolts are wrenched down to 56 ft-lb, while the center ones securing the cradle get 49 ft-lb.
http://photo.hondatech.com.au/DragCarAllMotor4/0311ht_projectcrx11_z.jpg
With the crankshaft secured, Aguilar turns his attention to assembling the custom JE pistons. He begins by placing just one wrist pin wire lock in each piston and oiling the pin bores. The locks can be tricky to secure, but JE has a few pointers: First, install the end of the wire lock at 90 degrees from the pick-lock groove. Then use a stiff, small-bladed screwdriver and insert the tip into the groove while wedging the lock into the groove without kinking the lock.
http://photo.hondatech.com.au/DragCarAllMotor4/0311ht_projectcrx12_z.jpg
With the first lock in place, Aguilar lines up the con-rod small end and slides the wrist pin into the bore, using a second wire lock to keep everything together.
http://photo.hondatech.com.au/DragCarAllMotor4/0311ht_projectcrx13_z.jpg
http://photo.hondatech.com.au/DragCarAllMotor4/0311ht_projectcrx14_z.jpg
For rings, Aguilar forgoes those supplied with the JE slugs and instead uses Honda factory issue, explaining that they are unsurpassed in quality and come pre-gapped so you'll know they'll fit perfectly every time. The install process is similar to the placement of the wrist pin locks. Insert one end of the ring into its respective groove; then rotate the ring around the piston dome, guiding the ring into its groove and making sure not to allow the other end of the ring to scratch the piston.
http://photo.hondatech.com.au/DragCarAllMotor4/0311ht_projectcrx15_z.jpg
Again with the bearings, but this time they're for the connecting rods. Like the mains, rod bearing clearances are deliberately left on the loose side. Aguilar goes with the yellows, warning that the protective factory coating each one gets comes off very easily. Be careful when handling.
http://photo.hondatech.com.au/DragCarAllMotor4/0311ht_projectcrx16_z.jpg
http://photo.hondatech.com.au/DragCarAllMotor4/0311ht_projectcrx17_z.jpg
For an added measure of lubrication, Aguilar uses a few drops of Maxilube antifriction metal treatment on the rod bearings.
http://photo.hondatech.com.au/DragCarAllMotor4/0311ht_projectcrx18_z.jpg
A dab of moly lube, used for heavy loads and high-friction applications, is applied to the shaft and threads of every rod bolt.
http://photo.hondatech.com.au/DragCarAllMotor4/0311ht_projectcrx19_z.jpg
One of the last things Aguilar does with the pistons before dropping them into their new homes is orient the ring gaps so none line up. Essentially he keeps each gap separated by 180 degrees, preventing any chance for blowby (leakage from the combustion chamber past the rings into the crankcase). Once they're adjusted, Aguilar marks the side of the piston to easily determine later on if any of the rings have shifted.
http://photo.hondatech.com.au/DragCarAllMotor4/0311ht_projectcrx20_z.jpg
The grooves, rings and skirts of each piston get a slathering of oil prior to installation
http://photo.hondatech.com.au/DragCarAllMotor4/0311ht_projectcrx21_z.jpg
Aguilar uses a ring compressor to slide the pistons into place. Resting the compressor and piston on the deck over the cylinder, he gives the piston a couple of hearty taps with the handle from a non-impact rubber mallet until the piston rests completely within the sleeve and the rod seats to the crank underneath. Aguilar says to make sure each con rod's locating tangs line up on the exhaust side of head.
http://photo.hondatech.com.au/DragCarAllMotor4/0311ht_projectcrx22_z.jpg
More Maxilube is sprinkled onto the rod journals before the caps get placed.
http://photo.hondatech.com.au/DragCarAllMotor4/0311ht_projectcrx23_z.jpg
Like the main cap bolts, the rod bolts are temporarily tightened at first, then torqued to 29 ft-lb per Honda factory specs. After all the bolts are tightened, the big end of every rod should have a small amount of side-to-side play along the rod journal. This is a sign that you torqued correctly and nothing has seized.
http://photo.hondatech.com.au/DragCarAllMotor4/0311ht_projectcrx24_z.jpg
Aguilar measures piston-to-deck clearance with a deck bridge. Typically, off-the-shelf aftermarket pistons are based on their stock counterparts, so when a block comes back from getting bored, honed, and resurfaced, the new piston crown will usually stick up above the deck about a thousandth or so. Erick's custom pistons compensate for that resurfaced deck height. Our P-to-D clearance is perfect and will facilitate an ideal squish area.
http://photo.hondatech.com.au/DragCarAllMotor4/0311ht_projectcrx25_z.jpg
With the rotating assembly complete, we leave Aguilar's Torrance, Calif., facility and head for Fountain Valley to check in on Thai Nguyen at Serenity Sound Performance. Nguyen is fitting our project ED9 chassis with a lightweight one-piece fiberglass front end supplied by MB Products. He starts by showing us how the hinged forward bracket is oriented horizontally on the front part of the chassis. It uses the factory mounting points and allows the front end to pivot up for engine access.
http://photo.hondatech.com.au/DragCarAllMotor4/0311ht_projectcrx26_z.jpg
With the bracket in place, Nguyen tightens down the base plate bolts hand tight.
http://photo.hondatech.com.au/DragCarAllMotor4/0311ht_projectcrx27_z.jpg
He then temporarily removes the hinged part, which slides right off, and finishes fastening the plates with an impact driver.
http://photo.hondatech.com.au/DragCarAllMotor4/0311ht_projectcrx28_z.jpg
http://photo.hondatech.com.au/DragCarAllMotor4/0311ht_projectcrx29_z.jpg
A pair of vertical brackets that serve as bases for the install kit's DZUS quick-release quarter-turn fasteners mounts just ahead of each doorframe. These brackets also utilize factory mounting points.
http://photo.hondatech.com.au/DragCarAllMotor4/0311ht_projectcrx30_z.jpg
For the moment Nguyen rests the front end on the CRX so he can line up the DZUS fasteners properly. He drills holes for the fasteners with a UniBit step bit, which bores through the fiberglass with ease.
http://photo.hondatech.com.au/DragCarAllMotor4/0311ht_projectcrx31_z.jpg
With the fastener in place, Nguyen marks the holes for the blind rivets with the tip of a nail. The rivets will secure the fasteners to the front end.
http://photo.hondatech.com.au/DragCarAllMotor4/0311ht_projectcrx32_z.jpg
A manual rivet tool is used to set the rivets. Nguyen repeats the process three more times for each DZUS fastener.
http://photo.hondatech.com.au/DragCarAllMotor4/0311ht_projectcrx33_z.jpg
http://photo.hondatech.com.au/DragCarAllMotor4/0311ht_projectcrx34_z.jpg
The hinged portion of the front bracket is reunited with the base plates so Nguyen can crawl up under the car and mark the mounting points on the front end. (Speaking on the phone during this process is
http://photo.hondatech.com.au/DragCarAllMotor4/0311ht_projectcrx35_z.jpg
http://photo.hondatech.com.au/DragCarAllMotor4/0311ht_projectcrx36_z.jpg
Nguyen drills out the mounting holes and secures the bracket to the front end with more blind rivets.
http://photo.hondatech.com.au/DragCarAllMotor4/0311ht_projectcrx37_z.jpg
http://photo.hondatech.com.au/DragCarAllMotor4/0311ht_projectcrx38_z.jpg
Not too shabby! We still have to mount the MB fiberglass sunroof cover, doors, and rear bumper, but we'll save those for another time. We also have to finish up our engine work, drop in the GS-R powerplant, set up the drivetrain, interior, tuning - all for another issue. Keep your eye out for more all-motor goodness in the months to come.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
We hoped you enjoyed reading this article. If you would like to know more about a subject or found an interesting article, email researchteam@hondatech.com.au about it so that we can build our library and educate all our fellow members.
reference: honda tuning magazine
Erick Aguilar gets things rolling by referencing the main bearing clearance numbers recorded during the last installment and looking up which factory bearings Honda recommends would work best with the main journals on the Eagle crank. Honda makes multiple types of main and rod bearings for various platforms and each is given a color designation that corresponds to a different thickness. Pink is the thinnest, black the thickest.
http://photo.hondatech.com.au/DragCarAllMotor4/0311ht_projectcrx03_z.jpgAs this is a low-mileage race motor and we need the ability to load the crank right away without spinning a bearing (which can happen if there's not enough clearance), Aguilar leaves tolerances a little looser than spec. The crank gets brown main bearings, with a single black bearing on the journal closest to the timing belt end of the motor (Aguilar guesses this particular journal got a hair more micropolish than the others).
http://photo.hondatech.com.au/DragCarAllMotor4/0311ht_projectcrx04_z.jpg
Then he douses each bearing with copious amounts of motor oil.
http://photo.hondatech.com.au/DragCarAllMotor4/0311ht_projectcrx05_z.jpg
http://photo.hondatech.com.au/DragCarAllMotor4/0311ht_projectcrx06_z.jpg
Before dropping in the crank, Aguilar preps the threads of the main cap bolts with assembly lube because it gives him a truer reading from the torque wrench. Threads treated with just oil can still sometimes bind and give a false reading, he adds.
http://photo.hondatech.com.au/DragCarAllMotor4/0311ht_projectcrx07_z.jpg
The crankshaft is introduced to the crankcase.
http://photo.hondatech.com.au/DragCarAllMotor4/0311ht_projectcrx08_z.jpg
Before the caps are installed, more oil is applied to the main journals and oil galleries of the crank. Aguilar uses a custom billet crank in his own car because he contends factory cranks - and aftermarket cranks based on factory cranks - tend to flex under high-rpm conditions.
http://photo.hondatech.com.au/DragCarAllMotor4/0311ht_projectcrx09_z.jpg
Thrust washers that prevent the crank from moving laterally go in on either side of the number four main journal. Then Aguilar positions the main bearing caps and temporarily tightens the cap bolts with a socket wrench.
http://photo.hondatech.com.au/DragCarAllMotor4/0311ht_projectcrx10_z.jpg
A torque wrench is used to finish tightening the main cap bolts. The end bolts are wrenched down to 56 ft-lb, while the center ones securing the cradle get 49 ft-lb.
http://photo.hondatech.com.au/DragCarAllMotor4/0311ht_projectcrx11_z.jpg
With the crankshaft secured, Aguilar turns his attention to assembling the custom JE pistons. He begins by placing just one wrist pin wire lock in each piston and oiling the pin bores. The locks can be tricky to secure, but JE has a few pointers: First, install the end of the wire lock at 90 degrees from the pick-lock groove. Then use a stiff, small-bladed screwdriver and insert the tip into the groove while wedging the lock into the groove without kinking the lock.
http://photo.hondatech.com.au/DragCarAllMotor4/0311ht_projectcrx12_z.jpg
With the first lock in place, Aguilar lines up the con-rod small end and slides the wrist pin into the bore, using a second wire lock to keep everything together.
http://photo.hondatech.com.au/DragCarAllMotor4/0311ht_projectcrx13_z.jpg
http://photo.hondatech.com.au/DragCarAllMotor4/0311ht_projectcrx14_z.jpg
For rings, Aguilar forgoes those supplied with the JE slugs and instead uses Honda factory issue, explaining that they are unsurpassed in quality and come pre-gapped so you'll know they'll fit perfectly every time. The install process is similar to the placement of the wrist pin locks. Insert one end of the ring into its respective groove; then rotate the ring around the piston dome, guiding the ring into its groove and making sure not to allow the other end of the ring to scratch the piston.
http://photo.hondatech.com.au/DragCarAllMotor4/0311ht_projectcrx15_z.jpg
Again with the bearings, but this time they're for the connecting rods. Like the mains, rod bearing clearances are deliberately left on the loose side. Aguilar goes with the yellows, warning that the protective factory coating each one gets comes off very easily. Be careful when handling.
http://photo.hondatech.com.au/DragCarAllMotor4/0311ht_projectcrx16_z.jpg
http://photo.hondatech.com.au/DragCarAllMotor4/0311ht_projectcrx17_z.jpg
For an added measure of lubrication, Aguilar uses a few drops of Maxilube antifriction metal treatment on the rod bearings.
http://photo.hondatech.com.au/DragCarAllMotor4/0311ht_projectcrx18_z.jpg
A dab of moly lube, used for heavy loads and high-friction applications, is applied to the shaft and threads of every rod bolt.
http://photo.hondatech.com.au/DragCarAllMotor4/0311ht_projectcrx19_z.jpg
One of the last things Aguilar does with the pistons before dropping them into their new homes is orient the ring gaps so none line up. Essentially he keeps each gap separated by 180 degrees, preventing any chance for blowby (leakage from the combustion chamber past the rings into the crankcase). Once they're adjusted, Aguilar marks the side of the piston to easily determine later on if any of the rings have shifted.
http://photo.hondatech.com.au/DragCarAllMotor4/0311ht_projectcrx20_z.jpg
The grooves, rings and skirts of each piston get a slathering of oil prior to installation
http://photo.hondatech.com.au/DragCarAllMotor4/0311ht_projectcrx21_z.jpg
Aguilar uses a ring compressor to slide the pistons into place. Resting the compressor and piston on the deck over the cylinder, he gives the piston a couple of hearty taps with the handle from a non-impact rubber mallet until the piston rests completely within the sleeve and the rod seats to the crank underneath. Aguilar says to make sure each con rod's locating tangs line up on the exhaust side of head.
http://photo.hondatech.com.au/DragCarAllMotor4/0311ht_projectcrx22_z.jpg
More Maxilube is sprinkled onto the rod journals before the caps get placed.
http://photo.hondatech.com.au/DragCarAllMotor4/0311ht_projectcrx23_z.jpg
Like the main cap bolts, the rod bolts are temporarily tightened at first, then torqued to 29 ft-lb per Honda factory specs. After all the bolts are tightened, the big end of every rod should have a small amount of side-to-side play along the rod journal. This is a sign that you torqued correctly and nothing has seized.
http://photo.hondatech.com.au/DragCarAllMotor4/0311ht_projectcrx24_z.jpg
Aguilar measures piston-to-deck clearance with a deck bridge. Typically, off-the-shelf aftermarket pistons are based on their stock counterparts, so when a block comes back from getting bored, honed, and resurfaced, the new piston crown will usually stick up above the deck about a thousandth or so. Erick's custom pistons compensate for that resurfaced deck height. Our P-to-D clearance is perfect and will facilitate an ideal squish area.
http://photo.hondatech.com.au/DragCarAllMotor4/0311ht_projectcrx25_z.jpg
With the rotating assembly complete, we leave Aguilar's Torrance, Calif., facility and head for Fountain Valley to check in on Thai Nguyen at Serenity Sound Performance. Nguyen is fitting our project ED9 chassis with a lightweight one-piece fiberglass front end supplied by MB Products. He starts by showing us how the hinged forward bracket is oriented horizontally on the front part of the chassis. It uses the factory mounting points and allows the front end to pivot up for engine access.
http://photo.hondatech.com.au/DragCarAllMotor4/0311ht_projectcrx26_z.jpg
With the bracket in place, Nguyen tightens down the base plate bolts hand tight.
http://photo.hondatech.com.au/DragCarAllMotor4/0311ht_projectcrx27_z.jpg
He then temporarily removes the hinged part, which slides right off, and finishes fastening the plates with an impact driver.
http://photo.hondatech.com.au/DragCarAllMotor4/0311ht_projectcrx28_z.jpg
http://photo.hondatech.com.au/DragCarAllMotor4/0311ht_projectcrx29_z.jpg
A pair of vertical brackets that serve as bases for the install kit's DZUS quick-release quarter-turn fasteners mounts just ahead of each doorframe. These brackets also utilize factory mounting points.
http://photo.hondatech.com.au/DragCarAllMotor4/0311ht_projectcrx30_z.jpg
For the moment Nguyen rests the front end on the CRX so he can line up the DZUS fasteners properly. He drills holes for the fasteners with a UniBit step bit, which bores through the fiberglass with ease.
http://photo.hondatech.com.au/DragCarAllMotor4/0311ht_projectcrx31_z.jpg
With the fastener in place, Nguyen marks the holes for the blind rivets with the tip of a nail. The rivets will secure the fasteners to the front end.
http://photo.hondatech.com.au/DragCarAllMotor4/0311ht_projectcrx32_z.jpg
A manual rivet tool is used to set the rivets. Nguyen repeats the process three more times for each DZUS fastener.
http://photo.hondatech.com.au/DragCarAllMotor4/0311ht_projectcrx33_z.jpg
http://photo.hondatech.com.au/DragCarAllMotor4/0311ht_projectcrx34_z.jpg
The hinged portion of the front bracket is reunited with the base plates so Nguyen can crawl up under the car and mark the mounting points on the front end. (Speaking on the phone during this process is
http://photo.hondatech.com.au/DragCarAllMotor4/0311ht_projectcrx35_z.jpg
http://photo.hondatech.com.au/DragCarAllMotor4/0311ht_projectcrx36_z.jpg
Nguyen drills out the mounting holes and secures the bracket to the front end with more blind rivets.
http://photo.hondatech.com.au/DragCarAllMotor4/0311ht_projectcrx37_z.jpg
http://photo.hondatech.com.au/DragCarAllMotor4/0311ht_projectcrx38_z.jpg
Not too shabby! We still have to mount the MB fiberglass sunroof cover, doors, and rear bumper, but we'll save those for another time. We also have to finish up our engine work, drop in the GS-R powerplant, set up the drivetrain, interior, tuning - all for another issue. Keep your eye out for more all-motor goodness in the months to come.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
We hoped you enjoyed reading this article. If you would like to know more about a subject or found an interesting article, email researchteam@hondatech.com.au about it so that we can build our library and educate all our fellow members.
reference: honda tuning magazine