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View Full Version : DIY: Cheaper way of doing Ek 5stud conversion


qiqi
14-04-2009, 07:13 PM
Disclaimer: The following is provided as a GUIDE ONLY, and neither myself nor Ozhonda take any responsibility for the outcomes of someone else doing the following. You follow these steps at your own risk!

Hi guys, recently I did my 5 stud conversion for my EK at a relatively low budget. I spend $700 for parts, $400 for 5stud rim, $250 for tyres and $100 for brake fluid and get it alignment. Overall, it add up to be ~$1500 which is the price of most traders in the forum sell the 5 stud conversion out of EK9 or DC2R.

Thus, i would like to share this with all of you guys who want a 5 STUD http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/images/smilies/tongue.gif

First of all, for front brake, many of you guys might know you can use CRV knuckle. For those doesn't know, the old CRV with b20 have identical knuckle to the DC2R. So you can use complete knuckle, hub, rotor, caliper and drive shaft for the swap. Basically, it just complete front brake system. you dun need the control arm and brake line.

- So, what you need to do is unbolt the suspension bolt, remove the 3 ball bearing or ball joint bolt, remove the front driveshaft with 32mm bolt
- When remove the ball bearing, use proper ball joint remover which can get from supercheap, autoone, conventry or repco. they cost like 20++
-you dun had to unbolt steering bolt .but make sure remove the ball joint
-then just bolt on the complete knuckle to the car and reverse what you done.
-if possible, get brand new brake pads and get rotor machine.

The CRV is using 36mm driveshaft. So, you can just swap over the outer joint with the stock driveshaft. just buy new boot tie and grease for $5 on each side. I use the complete dc5R shaft for my setup which is 36mm as well.

For rear 5 stud conversion, I order the new EK9 or DC2R rear hub with bearing that without ABS from Japan (My car doesn't had ABS). You can order them through Honda Australia but they charge 700 for it. I paid 300 for mine through Japan at strong currency different. You might get them for 100 if currency is low enough :P.

Then, I had pair of spare rear DC5R 5 stud caliper and rotor. So I reuse them for the swap. Amaze that the DC5R rotor, caliper and bracket just sit perfect like stock in EK. There are no gap or anything that occur to the system.

However, you had to swap over the left and right caliper as the handbrake bolt is touching the system. Also, you need to bleed the system first before you bolt the caliper to the bracket. This is because when you swap the left caliper to right, the bleeding nipple is actually facing downward. When you bleed, brake fluid is coming out instead of air.

I am not sure if all DC5 have ABS. If they dun had, you might be able to use them as well. When i took out the hub and bearing from dc5r, it actually had same size of shaft of the EK. but, it is slighter longer compare to EK due to the ABS system. If ur EG or EK had ABS, you might able to use them without purchasing new ek9 or dc2r hub bearing.

Also, the handbrake cable, you can use the stock EK handbrake cable by just adjust the bolt to the lowest point from the car. I had the DC5R handbrake cable as well but it seems useless for the swap.

I am really happy with the braking system now as the car stop far more easy and faster compare to before.

Hope this help to those interest in 5 stud conversion.

qiqi
14-04-2009, 07:15 PM
As you can see from the picture, the nipple of rear caliper is facing downward and I am using stock EK handbrake cable.
The photo shows the handbrake cable only, is from DC5R which use hole type end while EK using pin type end.

dynosaur
15-04-2009, 07:02 PM
Thank you so much for your generous sharing ;)

JDMBOLONI
17-08-2009, 06:24 PM
Thanks for the info,
I am just in the middle of doing this conversion myself.
I have purchased B20 front knuckles with hub/disc/caliper etc. and have also purchased an EK9 prop valve and 1" master cylinder.
I have to complete the rear axle and am going from drum to disc at the same time and have a few questions.

Does the rear caliper mounting bracket (slider) bolt up to the trailing arm, or the hub assembly itself?
If it mounts to the hub then I do I still have to purchase trailing arms from a vehicle with disc brakes? or can I just buy an EK9 rear hub, caliper, slider, e-brake lines, brake lines, pads etc???

Thanks H-T in advance.

Mike

qiqi
10-09-2009, 11:16 AM
the caliper is bolt to the trailing arm. not the hub. so u might still need to get the whole trailing arm.

JDMBOLONI
10-09-2009, 07:36 PM
Thanks for the reply.
I have had the Civic in the air and ya the trailing arm from a disc set-up is needed, hense why the AEM conversion comes with a big adapter bracket.
I have a set of EK4 rear disc brakes on the way and I will be buying new EK9 5 stud hubs and rotors to suit.
I just hope the EK4 rear caplier fits over the CTR rear disc?

Anyone know?

qiqi
10-09-2009, 08:03 PM
dun think you can use ek4 rear disk as it is 4x100. you can redrill the 4x114.3 by reusing one hole to 5x114.3. but for 4x100, not too sure.
Also, you might need to check the diameter of the hat of disk as well. EK4 disk could be too small.

I might able to check them during weekends.